Kanzashi Late Edo Kushi and Kogai Set

Genuine gold maki-e Kanzashi set.   A Kushi and Kogai from late Edo to early Meiji period (1850s to 1890).   Urushi lacquerwork with 18 carat gold maki-e.

The Kogai is made from genuine Bekko (Tortoiseshell).

Kanzashi are hair ornaments used in traditional Japanese hairstyles.  Kanzashi came into wide use during the Edo period when hairstyles became larger and more complicated, using a larger number of ornaments.  Artisans began to produce more finely crafted products.

During the latter part of the Edo period, the craftsmanship reached a high point.  Many different styles and designs were created. The most common use today is at Shinto weddings and use by maiko (apprentice geisha).  The way in which a geisha wears it indicates her status immediately to an informed audience.

Kogai – A two piece kanzashi made of Bekko (tortoiseshell or artificial) or other materials such as ceramics or metals.  They feature a design on each end.  Kogai means sword and refers to the shape of two pieces (a sword and its sheath). They are often sold as a set with an accompanying kushi comb.

Kushi are comb kanzashi.  These are usually rounded or rectangular combs made of tortoiseshell or lacquered wood.  Urushi lacquer work using the maki-e process was commonplace during the EDO period.  Some are inlaid with mother of pearl or gilding.

The Kushi is placed into a mage (bun-style hairdo).  The spine of the comb is often wide in order to allow maximum space for a design.